What is Purging (Skin Cleansing/Emptying Phase)? How to Differentiate it from Irritation and Malreactions?

“The skin’s reactions to new active ingredients indicate the adaptation process. Correctly interpreting this process is fundamental to effective and safe skincare.”

1. What is Purging?

Purging, often referred to as "skin cleansing" in Turkish, is a temporary adaptive response that occurs when certain newly introduced active skincare ingredients accelerate the skin's natural renewal (cell cycle) process.

During this process:

• already existing beneath the skin's surface
• Not yet visible
• Blockages called microcomedones are brought to the surface faster than normal.

As a result, shortly after a person starts using a new product containing exfoliating active ingredients:

• Increased acne,
• Increased blackheads,
• You may experience issues such as pores appearing more prominent.
  
  

2. How and Why Does Purging Occur?

The average skin cell renewal cycle is approximately 28 days; however, this can vary depending on a person's age, skin type, existing skin problems, and the active ingredients used. Some active ingredients significantly accelerate this cycle:

• Cells regenerate faster.
• Dead cells in the top layer are removed more quickly.
• Blockages at the bottom are brought to the surface.

This mechanism forms the basis of purging.

Dr. Rakesh Anand , a consultant dermatologist at London-based Skin Surgery Associates , explains the process as follows:

“Skin cleansing occurs because the active ingredients accelerate the skin’s natural exfoliation process. Therefore, underlying micro-comedones are brought to the surface more quickly, resulting in temporary acne-like lesions.”

3. What are the symptoms of purging?

The following symptoms may be observed during purging:

• Small, superficial pimples
• Some skin types have larger, painful, and pus-filled pimples.
• Increase in black or white spots
• Mild redness
• Flaking or peeling

These symptoms usually include:

• The new product appears within a few days to two weeks of launch.
• It takes an average of 4–8 weeks.

However, especially in skin with a high microcomedone load, sebum imbalance , and a dry surface but oily underlying structure, this process can take 2 to 6 months . This is due to the skin gradually bringing long-accumulated blockages to the surface and does not always indicate a negative outcome.

4. Purging or Irritation/Spraying?

These two situations are often confused, but there are clear differences between them:

Criterion	Purging (Skin Cleansing)	Irritation / Irritation
Beginning	After a new peeler is activated, after a while	Shortly after contact with the product
Residential	Areas that have previously experienced congestion/acne	Including areas that were not previously a problem.
Lesion type	Small pimples, sometimes painful purulent lesions.	Widespread redness, burning, stinging.
Duration	It is mostly temporary and subsides over time.	It continues or intensifies.
Barrier status	Mild flaking may occur.	Significant barrier damage, sensitivity.

🚨 Severe burning, itching, and eczema-like rashes are not purging.

5. Which Active Ingredients Can Cause Purging?

Purging is often associated with ingredients that accelerate cell renewal :

• Retinoids (retinol, retinal, tretinoin)
• AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid)
• BHA (salicylic acid)
• Azelaic acid (in some skin types)
  
  

Non-purging content.

Acne breakouts seen with the following ingredients are often due to irritation or incompatibility , not purging. If we have ruled out the possibility of an allergy, the skin may not react the same way when the treatment is tried again after strengthening the skin barrier.

• Niacinamide
• Hyaluronic acid
• Panthenol
• Peptides
• Ceramides
  
  

6. How Should the Purging Process Be Managed?

When purging, the goal is not to stress the skin, but to allow it to adapt properly.

✔ Things to do

• Start with actives slowly and at a low frequency.
• Avoid using more than one strong (peeling) active ingredient in the same routine.
• Support with barrier repair products (niacinamide, beta-glucan, ceramide)
• Always use SPF during the day.
• Apply to the target area if there is excessive dryness or excessive oiliness.

✖ Things you shouldn't do

• Increasing the dose because it "cleanses"
• Using peels (or exfoliating agents) one after another.
• Continuing to use the product while experiencing skin burning
  
  

7. Is Purging Suitable for Everyone?

No.

• Not all skin experiences purging.
• The absence of purging does not mean the product is ineffective.
• Some skin types (especially those without sebum buildup under the skin) adapt quietly.
• Purging is not a goal; it's a possible scenario.
  
  

8. When Should Intervention Be Made?

Purging is not expected in the following situations:

• Cystic acne
• Widespread redness and tenderness (mostly due to inflammation)
• Eczema-like rashes

In this case, product use should be discontinued and a specialist should be consulted.

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Purging is a temporary adaptation process that the skin may encounter on its healing journey. The goal is not to stress the skin; it's about using the right active ingredients, at the right frequency, and with a strong barrier in place.

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Source

• Anand, R. (2020). Retinoids and skin adaptation responses. Clinical Dermatology Review , 4(2), 85–92.
• Juhasz, MLW, & Levin, M.K. (2020). Differentiating acne flares from retinoid-induced irritation. Dermatologic Therapy , 33(6), e14028.
• Draelos, Z. D. (2018). The science behind skin care: Retinoids and exfoliation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology , 17(3), 353–360.